If you have any questions and want some answers, please fill out the forum at the bottom of the page. We will try our best to get back to you as soon as possible. Here we have answered the most frequently asked questions so far, maybe your question is on here!
1- What is the best intake?
Well this question is asked often. The answer varies. If you are stock, just an intake may not help much. I say it won't help much because the car technically comes with a stock cold air intake and is tuned already for a cold air. Now there is a HUGE different between a generic intake vs name brand intakes such as AEM,INJEN,K&N AND Takeda. The reason is simple, just like an exhaust the tubes are designed for best air flow and bends/material/cone means alot. The cone alone is design to allow a specific amount of air to flow in a way that a generic cone can't. Having a generic cone can risk debris getting in engine, not enough air, water getting in or HP/air decrease. The name brand intakes are more money because those companies put in R&D (research and developement) to enable the best posible solution. Adding a cold air intake can "complete" a build if you plan on bulding up your car and is a great way to upgrade from the restrictive stock intake system, which is why i say it may not add much on a stock car but it does open up some of the restiction that the stock intake does apply to the air system.
Cold air intakes are best for performance but some are scared of water getting in. To avoid this get a cone guard (also sold on there) or buy a short ram. Short rams are great too, but they tend to suck up more of the heat from the engine which in turn they don't perform as good as cold air versions.
Make sure every 10-15k miles you clean the cone or get a new one to optimize performance as the cones do get dirty over time.
2- What is the best way to lower my car?
Well this can be another question that can be answered in many ways.
Springs differ from coils because springs lower the car, but when applied with stock struts they put pressure on the stock struts which in turn takes away from their life and puts pressure on them that from factory the struts don't allow or call for. Its like body lifting more weight than you can handle. Springs also just lower the car one height and thats it. This is a great choice to lower the car if you don't want to spend 600$ plus on coilovers. Springs don't help with handling much as they do lower the car but the struts aren't meant to handle the increase pressure so inturn its a catch 22 being that you should get better handling from lowering the car but increase pressure of the struts takes away from ride quality. The best combo of springs would be to pair them off with after market shccks such as koni yellows which are made to handle the extra pressure.
Coils overs are replacing the full stock/strut combo. There are many brands and styles. There are styles that are just basic and adjust the right height, then there are ones that ajust height and dampen. Dampening means you control the pressure of the strut. Lets saying you are lowering the car and you feel that the car is bouncy but want it stiffer, well with the dampening feature you can adjust that by dampening the struts to be harder. Remember, the harder they are dampened and the rougher the roads the struts will take abuse, which is why we recommend a high quality coil over that will last, even under pressure. Why pay $600 for generic coil overs that only last 20k miles and have to uninstall and fix/replace and spend extra time and money.
Lowering the car inmproves handling by lower the cars center of gravity allow for better control and better handling. The brands of coils that we recommend are TEIN,ISC and BC.
3- What are the difference's of the TEIN basis, Street Advance and FLEX?
Basis - These adjust by spring compression but DON'T dampen, they do not come with top hats but you can just reuse the top hats off of your stock suspension.
Street advance - These adjust by spring compression and dampen, they do not come with top hats but you can just reuse the top hats off of your stock suspension.
Flex - These are dual adjustable. This means you can adjust the spring compression and the ride height separate. This model does dampen and also comes with pillow ball top mounts.
Basis and SA are a little easier to adjust right height because all you have to do is just light the car and tighten or loose the spring to height. Flex are a better model because dual adjusting the height and compression allows one to dial in the suspension a little more, but to adjust the height requires a little more time and removal of the wheels.
4- Why is my car randomly dying with a replaced battery? (04-08 TL).
This is simple, your HFL went bad. HFL is hands free link, when this goes bad it stays on constantly which drains the battery. The HFL may still work, but its just stuck on. This is a very common issue with the TL.
The HFL is located under the plastic piece right above your rear view mirror. You can get to it by removing the dome light section (pops right out and unclick the two plugs to remove that) and then (4) 8mm bolts that hold the plastic to the frame and the HFL is held down by 3 screws.
5- Why is the triangle light on (traction) and my car not going past 3k RPM's? (04-08 TL).
This is another common issue and has to do with the "APP" sensor. This sensor is located on the passenger side of the car near the top of the strut connected to the strut bar. Its black and about 5 inches long and 2 wide. It has one 10mm bolt to the strut bar and a plug connecting it along with a long cable traveling to the driver side through the fire wall. This part is around $145 and your car is basically in "limp" mode.
6- Why does is HFL (hands free link) stuck on booting?(04-08 TL).
This is a common issue with the TL's. The hands free link is fried and not working.
The HFL is located under plastic piece right above your rear view mirror. You can get to it by removing the dome light section (pops right out and unclick the two plugs to remove that) and then (4) 8mm bolts that hold the plastic to the frame and the HFL is held down by 3 screws.
7- What is the best camber kit? (04-08 TL).
This really depends how much are you going to be lowering your car.
Ingalls are the two lower bars and Ingalls Alignment Kits correct Caster, Camber and Toe problems associated with lowering you vehicle.ANY amount of ride height change will cause camber and toe to change. It might not always be visible but having your camber out of adjustment will cause the tire to run on the inside edge only. The lower you go the more negative camber you will get and the faster the tire will wear.
Eibach These alignment kits not only assist in adjusting a vehicle's camber back to factory specifications, but they also allow an experienced chassis tuner to utilize the increased adjustment range to "dial-in" a performance-oriented alignment that uses negative camber to maximize a chassis' true potential. With correct alignment, turn-in becomes more precise and handling becomes gratifyingly crisp and predictable. High-speed stability is also enhanced, making an Eibach Pro-Alignment kit a necessity for the serious performance tuner.
If you are going for stance and getting the rim to fit perfectly while lowering (which most do when lowering their car or getting rims), eibach would be the best bet because it allows the wheel to get the clearance required by be able to move the top of the wheel in and out which ingalls doesn't allow. This helps prevent the wheel from rubbing, hitting the quarter panel or just help get the fitment and stance your going for.
Eibach replaces the top and ingalls replaces the lower two bars.
8- Differences between changing mufflers or doing the 'stages mod' to adding an aftermarket prebuilt catback.
Retaining the stock catback piping and just adding mufflers or doing the 'stages mod' is mainly for sound. There is no performance to be gained from this. If you are building your car and have mods done, retaining the stock catback or stock catback piping restricts gains that can be had from other mods.
Prebuilt catbacks such as ours below, are tuned specifically for the car to increase HP and manipulate the sound by adding specific bends/mufflers and increase piping size to allow for optimal flow. If you are building up your car and have a stock catback, you are restrictiong all of that 'potential hp' by not chaning the catback.
9- Differences in the 2004-2008 Acura TL a spec kits.
There are three different models for the 2004-2008 Acura TL - base 04-06, base 07-08 and Type-s.
base 04-06 is the smaller lip with the grey middle
base 07-08 is the smaller front lip which is a little more rounder and all the same color. This does fit the type-s with slight trimming around the fog area since the type-s slants down and base slants up.
type-s is the bigger and bulkier front and this does fit the base 07-08 with no modifications and base 04-06 with heavy cutting around the fog area.
Sides - Are all the same
Rear - All base 04-08 are the same, type-s has the middle mesh and larger exhaust ports. This does fit the base with trimming around the exhaust ports.
10-RDX brake covers for 2004-2008 TL.
These are put on the TL to replicate BBK's. These are metal covers that simply slide on. They do however need to be secured somehow. Most use high temp rvt to secure in place and hold. Front and rear just bend the tabs to fit over the caliper, then apply some rvt to secure.